Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Here is some cool information on Western Pond Turtle Care

Origin: Western U.S. (ponds, lakes and marshes)

There are two subspecies:

Northwestern Pond Turtle (Clemmys marmorata marmorata) and

Southwestern Pond Turtle (Clemmys marmorata pallida)

Adult height: Usually up to 8 inches (shell length)

Lifespan: Unknown, probably more than 30 years as other pond turtles

Behavior: Not as territorial and aggressive as the turtle many others. You can keep some of the animals, and together, as they have enough space to swim.

Set-up: It's a kind of aquatic animals, so that the housing must be mostly water. Your turtle needs a place to leave the water and warm, like a well placed rock or a pile of rocks or a dock located at the turtle your local pet store. Use sand or gravel to cover the bottom of the tank under water and decorated with aquatic plants or driftwood to keep your turtle to feel safe.

The minimum recommended size of an animal reservoir for one gallon is 20 long. Bigger is always better. Other containers can be used, such as large Rubbermaid bins, so that the container is able to safely maintain about 20 gallons of water or more. Fill the tank at least half way. Dechlorinator conditioner or water is not necessary unless you use very hard water (like tap water J State College), in this case, a water conditioner especially for turtles should be used.

Lighting / Temperature: It is a kind of day, which means it is active during the day when the sun is out. UV in natural sunlight is used by the body of the turtle to make vitamin D3 from its money supply. UV fluorescent bulbs specifically designed for reptiles are available in pet stores to keep your turtle healthy. Although generally a waste to spend money to "fanatics" fun, light is extremely important, and if you give him (including adequate calcium), it will seriously damage your health and quality of the turtle life.

A pilgrim lamps are also needed. Position of the light above the area of ​​gravel or dirt in the tank to create a warm basking. Use the appropriate power bulb heat and position of lights to create a temperature of 90-95 degrees F. Pilgrim Many thermometers are available to measure the temperature inside the enclosure, but remember that all the stick and a dial thermometer, although still useful to have, simply measure the temperature ambient (air temperature) and not give you an accurate reading of the basking area. For the temperature of a pilgrim, you should take a digital probe thermometer (available at most hardware and garden supply stores, and not as expensive as you think!). The digital sensor measures the temperature of the surface temperature of the rock is really heating Locust stomach and provide proper heat for proper digestion.

An aquarium heater is a good idea. These guys are the best in hot water and should be kept in water temperatures in the 80s F. A submersible heater is the only way because the tank is filled to the top. These animals are notorious for their violations of heaters, so we recommend you consult a titanium or "unbreakable" warmer glass to avoid problems.

Filtration and maintenance: facing the turtle is too messy, so a good reliable filter is important. There are many different types of filters out there, if none are particularly better than others. It is a matter of personal preference really, if you want to go to an engine block as Fluval submersible filter, under gravel or Hydrosponge, or if you want an outdoor types such as type of cascade Hang-On-side or filter housing. Whatever the filtering method you choose, remember to have a lot of it and clean it often!

regular maintenance of the reservoir is a must with aquatic turtles. The water is dirty quickly, and continue to dirty water can have very negative effects on the health of the turtle. How often do you change the water or clean the filter depends on how many turtles you have in relation to the size of the reservoir, and also how much filtration you have and how much or how often you feed them. Cleaning the tank is not much different than cleaning an aquarium. A siphon tank is a huge help and the best way to eliminate all waste and debris from under the tank. Drain as much water as you need to get the tank clean. Turtles are not sensitive to the by-product of the nitrogen cycle such as fish, so you do not have to worry about cycling and being careful with the filter, and it gives you much freedom as far as tank cleaning. Just remember never to use soap! There are spray cleaners available from your local pet safe for use in the reptile, and if you're really worried about it a little dirty tank bleach must be strange habit. Just be careful to rinse well and do not put your turtle in the tank until the bleach smell is gone.

Food: As most of the pond turtle, these guys are omnivores. That means they eat meat and vegetarian dishes. Variety is the key to a healthy diet. There are many turtles packaged food market. Some are better than others, depending on the value of certain components such as protein and phosphorus. Stick to one of premium brands is your best bet, as good nutrition is essential for the reptile.

Crickets, red worms and superworms is one of the most popular foods live in pet stores. Dust with powdered supplements (both calcium and vitamin) just before the meal, or "gutload" 24 hours before giving them to your turtle. Other good food and live performances, mostly available online including silkworms and to Phoenix. Avoid mealworms and waxworms because of their high fat content, general lack of nutrition Shell and difficult to digest mealworms. Remember not to feed your tortoise beetle while you learn. Some may have toxic (deadly lightning bugs!) and wild insects is likely to carry parasites (an expensive vet bill that you would rather avoid). To add a little more calcium in the diet, it is also recommended to have a piece of cuttlebone float in water (available under the pet bird). The turtle is sometimes nibble on the bone and as it dissolves in water, it can also be useful not only food, but the skin of the turtle and the health of its shell.

Live fish can be given as an occasional snack. They are not very good for your turtle nutritionally, it may stunt its growth is very fertile. Think of it as going to McDonalds for dinner. A meal there will probably not have much impact on your health, but it should not become a habit! Fortunately, there are some health and parasite-free alternative to live fish for your turtle. Most grocery stores offer a variety of fresh seafood, which is not very expensive when purchased in small quantities. Shrimp, squid (tentacles and two nets), tilapia, catfish and shark steak is very popular with all the turtle. Stick with cash "white meat" fish because they do not leave your dirty water, and be sure to eat as much variety as you can. You'll also find freeze-dried or frozen at your local pet turtle that you want to nibble. They are not as nutritious as fresh seafood, but they make excellent snacks and help add variety to their diet.

Let the healthy leaves (such as kale, turnip greens, mustard greens or dandelion leaves) float on the water gives your turtle in entertainment and a healthy snack. They will also enjoy endive, escarole, pieces of zucchini or yellow squash, zucchini, carrots, the occasional piece of apple or banana, lettuce and celery etc to avoid, and do not eat too much fruit . Turtles can get stomach aches and dehydration eating. Also avoid kale, broccoli and spinach because of their characteristics nutrient binding. You can probably find more information online diet if you look in the right place. We recommend you start with the site of Melissa Kaplan Just remember not to let the vegetables, fruit uneaten or bugs in the water too long. Let food be bad makes dirty water and can also make your turtle sick.

Health: The turtles are very sensitive to all common health problems of other reptiles. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), deficiencies in calcium and vitamin or toxicity, liver disease and kidney impaction (bowel obstruction), dehydration, fungal and bacterial infections, stress, respiratory infections, parasites, etc. Most of these diseases are being treated by changing something about your care plan or with the help of a qualified veterinarian for reptiles, but is easily avoided because they have much to do with food / nutrition, temperature and light. That is why it is so important to have a good set-up since the beginning. Well cared for a turtle and live in an environment should live a long and healthy life with fewer problems. Another health problem is with the turtles shell. Besides the normal loss, sometimes the shell can be very brittle, sticky or greasy even. He has often done with poor water quality and / or insufficient UV exposure, and there are useful products available in your pet store to help shell healthy.

An important side note on MBD and other similar problems, if your turtle and his shell seems to be growing at different rates, or legs or face seem to distort the tortoise, the UV bulb may be long for or change your turtle can not be enough calcium in their diet. This is a serious health and veterinary attention should be sought immediately.

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